Kampot, Cambodia

The stockings were hung by the chimney with care, in the hopes St. Nicholas would soon be there... or that we'd reach Kampot just in time for Christmas Eve! After a brief three-hour bus ride from Phnom Penh, we arrived in Kampot before lunchtime, eager to discover what awaited us in our next city.

Once we checked into the hotel, we rented a motorbike and began exploring the countryside. Unlike the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh, Kampot is renowned for its farming and fishing community. We hadn't ridden a motorbike since visiting the royal tombs in Hue over two weeks ago, so it was nice taking back the freedom to roam and explore at our own pace. We familiarized ourselves with the surroundings before unwinding back at the hotel with dinner overlooking the river.

Christmas

After discussing with our families, we embarked on our Christmas adventure to Preah Monivong Bokor National Park. Located about an hour from the city, the park offered breathtaking views of Kampot and the surrounding islands, perched over 3,000 feet above sea level. As we drove up the mountain, I mentioned wanting to see monkeys, and soon enough, we rounded a corner to find about 30 of them playing on the road and along the mountainside. We took some photos before continuing our drive, but they kept appearing around every bend. I would estimate we saw over 100 monkeys throughout the day.

After refueling the bike, we reached our first scenic spot, the Cathedral. The Église du Mont Bokor

was built in the 1920s during the French colonial era, featuring a blend of Gothic and Romanesque architectural styles. It has survived the passage of time and conflict, including being used as a storage facility and barracks by Khmer Rouge soldiers. Today, it is somewhat dilapidated and appeared quite eerie as you approached, noticing the graffiti and missing ceiling pieces.

The second major highlight of the national park (besides the monkeys) was Le Bokor Palace. This palace is the main structure on the mountain, situated at an altitude of over 1,000 meters. At this height, settlers seeking relief from Cambodia's hot weather found a retreat, making it a renowned summer destination for the French elite and royal family. It opened in 1925 but was later abandoned due to the civil war and remained untouched until tourists returned in 1997. Looking at the abandoned building, it was easy to imagine what it might have been like in her heyday and got Jamie and me picturing what life would be like if we chose to run a B&B.

Boxing Day

Following an eventful Christmas Day, we decided to continue our motorbiking adventures with enthusiasm. We explored some beautiful side roads that led us through the heart of Kampot's countryside. The landscape reminded me somewhat of Alberta—vast and flat, with mountains looming in the distance. We crossed railroad tracks and passed through small villages, encountering numerous cows along the way. We took a break from biking at a coffee shop that offered views of the Secret Lake and the city below. It's called a city lake because it only appears at certain times, depending on whether you're visiting during or shortly after the rainy season. Fortunately, we saw it as a lake since the rainy season had just ended.

After our coffee stop, we rode to La Plantation to tour one of the area's many pepper plantations. Farms must adhere to specific criteria to claim they sell authentic Kampot pepper. Although I didn't notice a significant difference between their pepper and store-bought varieties, it was enjoyable to walk through the farm and take pictures. I was surprised to learn that pepper grows similarly to grapes on tall plants. After the tour, our guide had us sample various peppers, and we tried vanilla ice cream with red pepper—a surprisingly delicious combination.

After visiting the pepper plantation, we were left pondering whether it was worth driving to Kep, as we were already quite close. I wanted to visit the Kep crab market, and since it was nearly dinner time, Jamie indulged me and took us to Kep on the bike. The market itself wasn't much different from other food markets we've visited, but its uniqueness lies in buying seafood from a fish vendor and having it cooked right there in the market. Kep is famous for its blue crab, which is pulled fresh from the water just a short distance from the market. These crabs are said to be sweeter than regular crabs and are served in a pepper sauce similar to the fresh pepper we just sampled. I must say, it was some of the best crabs I've ever tasted. The experience of having it alive and then cooked right in front of you was something new for me, and the sauce it was cooked in was so intricate that I would have gladly bought a bottle of it on its own. Definitely moving to #1 in the best things I have eaten during the trip.

After the Kep crab market, we returned to the resort planning to spend the next two days relaxing after two action-packed days. While we loved our hotel, it was unfortunately booked out, so we also needed to switch hotels during the next few days. Finding a reasonable rate for the property next door, we walked around the corner and checked into the new property spending the day working from our new riverside bungalow.

Bird Watching & Mangroves

With Jamie's newfound interest in birdwatching, we searched for good birdwatching spots in Kampot, given its rural setting and proximity to water. We discovered that the salt fields were recommended. From January to May, salt farmers in Kampot harvest salt using an evaporation technique. Although it wasn't harvest season during our visit, the area was flooded, creating an ideal haven for birds.

We weren't very successful in spotting birds at the salt fields, so Jamie suggested kayaking in the nearby mangroves. After a short bike ride, we arrived at the mangrove area only to find the kayak rental closed. However, there were boats available to take people to a mangrove farm where you could plant your own mangrove for $1. The total boat cost was $15 USD, so we teamed up with another couple to share the expense. We set out to explore the mangroves, plant a mangrove, and search for birds along the water. This spontaneous adventure turned out to be one of my favorite experiences in Kampot, with the hope that a mangrove will grow tall and strong thanks to our visit.

Green Cathedral

The thing that put Kampot on my radar was a post I saw on Pinterest of people kayaking through the Green Cathedral. With kayaks included in our new hotel's rate and a 30-degree day with no clouds in sight, things were aligning us to have the perfect afternoon kayak. Beginning right in front of our hotel, we set out to explore the 3 km stretch of inland waterway, enveloped by lush tropical greenery. The dense jungle surrounding the waterway was stunning and alive with the sounds of nature, from the rustling leaves to the distant calls of birds. I had initially worried that this popular kayaking spot would be crowded with other tourists, however, to my surprise, we found ourselves largely alone on the water. I would say about 80% of the time, we were the only ones in sight, allowing us to relax in nature and enjoy the solitude the Green Cathedral offers. It was a perfect blend of adventure, serenity, and the raw beauty of Kampot's landscape, making it a highlight of our stay.

Onto the Main Attraction

After extending our stay in Kampot to a full week, it was time to board the sleeper bus to Siem Reap. We spent New Year's Eve on a 9-hour bus journey, ending 2024 asleep in our bunks as we traveled to the town everyone mentions when talking about Cambodia. The upcoming week will involve me channeling my inner tomb raider as we explore Angkor Wat, visit lotus farms, and learn about landmine dismantling - I can't wait!