Hoi An, Vietnam

I think my excitement for Hoi An was contagious because I talked non-stop about all the things I was looking forward to and really built the hype up for Jamie. With high expectations for the country's ancient city, we were a bit disappointed to have the rainy season weather affect how much time we could spend outside. That being said, this was the first time the weather was not really in our favor in three months of full-time travel, so I'll take it.

We still managed to have a great time and soaked (literally) in the beautiful views of this lantern-filled town. Here's a recap of what we got up to in Hoi An.

Walking Tour

After a wonderful walking tour in Hue, we decided to explore Hoi An in the same way taking a walking tour of the old town. Embracing our spontaneous side, we decided to join the tour while working from a coffee shop just 20 minutes before it began. Hoi An's ancient town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so to help preserve it, you have to buy a ticket costing 120,000 VND (4.73 USD). This fee doesn't restrict access to the town but allows entry to some of the main attractions. The town's architecture is fascinating, showcasing the diverse cultures of the Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, and French who have lived there over the years.

We began the tour by visiting a Chinese temple, which impressed us with its incense coils. This place smelled amazing. The vibrant colors were surprising, and it honored three 'gods' who were actual people in the 10th century. Our next stop was the Japanese-covered bridge, where we learned about the city's flooding issues. The bridge was constructed because the Japanese believed a sea monster caused tsunamis when it moved. Vietnam was thought to be at the center of the monster's back, and building the bridge was believed to bring stability and prevent tsunamis in Japan.

The city is home to numerous traditional old houses, and our tour guide chose one for us to explore. He took us to Tấn Kí, the residence of a wealthy merchant, where we admired the wooden furniture adorned with patterns made from snail and oyster shells. Our tour then concluded at the Hoi An Traditional Art Performance House, where we enjoyed various performances, including dancers representing the four sacred animals and a traditional bingo game. I particularly enjoyed the bingo because we each received a wooden icon upon entry, allowing us to participate in hopes of being the lucky winner. This traditional bingo is also an entertaining act, as performers sing folk songs related to the icon until someone in the audience announces they have the matching symbol.

Coconut Boat

Possibly the most effortless experience we've had, we coordinated with Green Coconut for pickup and a tour to enjoy Hoi An's renowned coconut boat trip. Jamie and I boarded a round, coconut-shaped boat and drifted along the river, taking tons of photos while wearing traditional pointed Vietnamese hats. We were lucky to have a laid-back boat captain who navigated us away from the large tour groups, making it feel like we had the river to ourselves.

The weather was cloudy with occasional sunshine, and combined with the coconut plant-filled boat ride, it was the perfect day. There were a ton of cool sights as we sailed, the first because the water was only a meter deep in some areas, so there were huts of people selling items in the water! As we turned a corner, we encountered a wild scene of boats spinning rapidly like Disneyland's teacups, taking sharp angles and soaring in the air. Our guide tried to persuade us to spin slowly, but we barely managed 270 degrees before Jamie and I started feeling queasy! Another fascinating aspect of the coconut boat was the men with huge speakers attached to their boats, creating a floating karaoke experience with small dance stages. Sensing our discomfort with the noise, our captain took us further down the river to watch a fisherman cast his net.

I didn't see other groups doing this, but our captain also brought us to a shallow area to teach us how to catch coconut crabs. He used wooden sticks with a bit of octopus to lure the crabs. Jamie proved to be a natural fisherman and boat captain. He was given the sail and quickly learned to create a fish pattern in the water to navigate; otherwise, you'd just go in circles. It was one of my Vietnam highlights and a bargain at 360,000 VND (14 USD) for both Jamie and me, including round-trip transportation (a 20-minute drive) from our hotel to the coconut village.

Tailoring

After the coconut boat, we were dropped off in the old quarter and walked around to get quotes from different tailors since we heard one of the top things to do in Hoi An. We ended up with quotes from 15 different tailors with Jamie collecting business cards as we went so we could get the best price possible without being overcharged as tourists.

We regrouped over Banh Mi and chose Sen Tailor Hoi An because we liked their interactions and pricing. I got a skort and an A-line short-sleeve dress, while Jamie opted for a shirt and shorts made from breathable fabric. Most people visit for wedding or formal attire, which I think contributes to the excellent pricing. We were charged $30 USD per item (or 60 for my dress), which seemed a bit high, but perhaps it's reasonable since it's tailored to our measurements? Not sure, but we assumed it would be cheaper. Anyway, we got to select our preferred fabric and color, and they measured us, noting our dimensions.

The next day, we returned for our fitting, and the dress fit perfectly. I loved it so much that I ordered the same style in two more patterns. The tailors suggested taking in the skort slightly and adjusting the length, so I took their advice and then it was just as I envisioned. Jamie's shirt fit well; he usually falls between sizes due to his toned chest, so shirts either restrict his movement or are too loose, but this one looked great on him. They took notes, and we came back once more on day 3 for the final fittings.

Bamboo Circus Show

We were torn between attending a large production called Memories of Hoi An or watching the bamboo circus show, Teh Dar. We ultimately chose the circus because I felt it would offer a more local and cultural experience, and suspected Jamie might critique the technology and projections if we opted for the Memories show.

The circus was incredible! The narrative explores the world of Vietnamese highlanders as they perform daring acrobatics, accompanied by live music played on exotic tribal instruments recognized by UNESCO. Meaning ‘going in circle’ in the K'ho highland tribe's language, Teh Dar embraces and preserves the beautiful and diverse cultures of Vietnamese tribes. The setting was intimate, with a small stage ensuring every seat provided a great view. The theatre itself has a unique design and is the first and only bamboo theatre in Vietnam, specifically built for local art performances.

Massage

Hoi An was the first location where we experienced the rainy season, with flooding occurring throughout the ancient city. Having completed all the outdoor activities we wanted, I decided to indulge in a massage after working during the day. My burn had finally healed enough to allow me to wear a small band-aid instead of a large bandage around my leg. I booked a 45-minute aromatherapy massage, fresh pedicure, and had my eyebrows done at Habana Spa & Nail, primarily because it was only a 4-minute walk from our hotel. The total cost was 630,000 VND ($25 USD), which I consider quite a bargain. They also served me tea and a mango to snack on, while soaking my feet in lemongrass and lemon for a delightful pampering experience.

Lantern Making

Whenever we mentioned how long we were staying in Hoi An, people were surprised because there was not a lot to do. However, we needed to be there on December 14 to experience the Lantern Festival. Once a month, based on the lunar calendar, the lights in the ancient city are turned off, and the city is illuminated solely by lanterns.

Looking back, I'm not sure it was necessary to be there for the festival. It wasn't much different from other nights in the downtown area. Nonetheless, to mark the occasion, we attended a lantern-making class in the afternoon. The class provided a frame, and then it was up to us to choose the fabric and apply it with glue. There's a lot of cutting and tucking of the edges, but before you know it, the lantern is ready to hang and shine. The process was a nice return to arts and crafts. After making the lantern, we walked back downtown and ended up negotiating a short lantern ride on the (very flooded) river. It was brief but marked the end of a memorable stay in Hoi An.

Almost time to say goodbye to Vietnam

After seven days in Hoi An, we drove up to Da Nang to stay close to the airport as in two days we would fly to Ho Chi Minh City for our last stop in Vietnam before we carry on into Cambodia! And for those worried, don't be, I did our Cambodia visas way ahead of time so there shouldn't be any issues.

See you in HCMC!